The Red Rock Wonder: Antelope Canyon, AZ, USA
“We are so made that we can derive intense enjoyment from a contrast and very little from a state of things.”
Sigmund Freud knew what he was talking about. After our last highly relaxing getaway, we decided it was time for a change of scenery. From the mountains and the snow in Shasta to the hot, yet beautiful, desert in Arizona.
The Journey:
We flew into Phoenix on Friday evening and drove immediately to Flagstaff to save us some time in the days to follow.Good thing too..Phoenix was sweltering at a 108 deg F that night !
Day 1: Drive from Flagstaff to Page
This journey, if made at the right time, is a beautiful one..one often sees this vision in movies and posters but it is another thing to see it in real life; where you can see the road ahead for miles together, the technicolor play on the red rock and air so clear, that you can see the shadows of the clouds passing on the hills.
It is time to put your feet up and simply enjoy the show.
The drive to Page is a beautiful two hours, if you don't stop too often on the way to enjoy the vast expanses. Mile after mile of the rising red rock and clear blue skies.
Just after you enter the Page city limits, watch out for signs to the Horseshoe bend. This a gorgeous vista where the canyon has formed into a horseshoe shaped gorge allowing the beautiful river to flow into it. Quite a gorgeous view as can be seen
The Horseshoe bend entails about a mile's hike and if you are unfortunate, like us, to face some of nature's wrath. The dessert is a merciless and cruel teacher. we learnt quite a few lessons at Horseshoe bend.
LESSON 1: EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED
We just couldn't contain our delight at the beautiful day and we were thankful for the breeze which made the heat, and eventually us, ..less miserable. And then came the contrast..the gentle breeze suddenly whipped up into a full blown windstorm, leaving us in the middle of the hike, with nowhere to hide.
LESSON 2: RESPECT THE DESERT
A windstorm in the desert is not just dangerous, it is quite literally painful. The wind whips up the loose rubble and carries them with such gusto that they feel like actual whips on you arms, legs and face.Covering yourself and crouching might be the only way to protect your vitals.
LESSON 3: BE PREPARED
Don't take anything for granted, including weather reports. Be prepared. strong jackets, scarves, sunglasses, strong shoes, the works. Dress in layers. you can always shed the layers if it gets hot as hell. Also remember to keep with you a handy fan available at local Drug stores for a buck or two.
What the desert eventually serves up, is perspective on a platter. We were so grateful to be out of the windstorm and so delighted to get some good pics in spite of it, that we almost forgot to feel miserable that our 6 hour rafting trip down the river had been cancelled. Instead, I think all I really wanted then was a nice , long, warm shower and a really comfy bed to crash on.
I did eventually get my warm shower and comfy bed..and after a wonderful siesta, we got some even better food at Fiesta Mexicana. The comfy food hit the spot and I fell in love with the strawberry Margarita.
One can never be a true traveler if one isn't adaptable. With our rafting trip suddenly cancelled due to high winds, T and I found ourselves with way too much time in the middle of nowhere. Adaptability was suddenly looking difficult. We decided to make the best of it though, and went for a nice walk to Lake Powell. Also discovered that evening, a lovely place called Canyon King Pizzeria, with good pizzas and even better beer. A lively conversation with the owner brought Day 1 to an end.
Day 2: Antelope Canyon and drive back to Flagstaff
Day 2 dawned a beautiful day. The air was crisp;it wasn't too hot. I was absolutely ready to finally see what I had traveled all the way for. Smart folks would do good to book their tours way in advance for the Upper antelope canyon..where all the coloring magic happens. Antelope canyon is a part of the Navajo Nation territory which does not permit any private vehicles, only guided tours. These get sold out quickly and ad hoc planning does not work well.
The Memorial day weekend is also a very popular time to visit the canyon for the best colors and contrasts. The place is bustling with photographers, tourists, curious souls, wannabe photographers like me and other random folks. I bid adieu to the waiting folks as the open van chugged far into the desert to our destination. What awaited us was an hour for pure joy as far as I was concerned. I had landed in a trigger happy, camera-ready universe. I will let the pics do the talking for me
Let's just say Mother nature is one hellava artist, and isn't afraid to use bold colors.
In the afternoon we drove back to Flagstaff enjoying yet another great road trip. Spent a wonderful evening just chilling and enjoying the local flavors.
Day 3: Coconino National Forest, Mormon lake, Horseback riding and the journey back to Phoenix.
Contrast was the calling of the day.After two days of staring at vast expanses and red rock everywhere, we were absolutely ready to embrace some contrast, which brought us to the pine tree Coconino national forest.
One would find it very hard to imagine lush green pine trees , and a whole forest of them, to be in the middle of desert land, but there it was..staring back at us, full of joy that we paid it a visit. It is one of the lesser known gems in Arizona.
An hour long drive brought us to Mormon Lake Lodge. Their homemade chili was just about perfect as we gazed at all the John Wayne posters around us. We were in the Wild Wild West indeed. It just had flavors, quite unknown to most.
Lots of chili and some cowboy hats later, we found ourselves mounting a coupla big horses ready for an hour long trot into the forest. Its wonderful really, going horseback into the forest, learning about the Spaniards and the native Indians, the gold rush and enjoying the scent of the wild flowers along the way. Almost takes you back in the day.
Sadly we had to go from horseback to back in the car if we hoped to make our flight back in time. So we bid a sad farewell to the friendly horses and the friendlier wrangler.
The cacti along the sides of the road would be the final memories of the Desert for the time being.
Until we long for the technicolor play again...
"The Desert, when the sun comes up ..I couldn't tell where the earth stopped and the heaven began"
-Tom Hanks, Forrest Gump
